Sunday, 10 April 2011

Canal Saint Martin and the Marais

On Saturday, after our morning shop at the Montorgueil market (spelt correctly this time!) we headed out for a walk along Canal Saint Martin.  Interestingly, at separate literary events we attended featuring Adam Gopnik and Tom Rachman (the Imperfectionists- wonderful book), we asked them both to recommend a special place for us to visit in Paris--- both said Canal Saint Martin!!!  While there were not too many shops on the Canal, it is a great place for a walk on a warm day, which yesterday was.  We shared a sandwich on the bank and were lucky to see the drawbridge (which opened sideways) in action.  Then a walk back along Rue Rambateau where we passed Pain de Sucre, an amazing patisserie.  See picture below. http://www.patisseriepaindesucre.com/


sideways drawbridge




We have been so lucky with the weather to date. For the past week, temperatures have been in the 20s every day.  This will end tomorrow and the predictions are for low to mid teens later this week.  However, in the good weather, all of Paris lives in the cafes and parks.

Today we went to a local market on Rue Bretagne- it is the oldest covered market in Paris- called Marche des Enfants Rouge dating back to 1615, renovated in 2002.  The name is taken from the red uniforms that were worn by children of an orphanage nearby.

Then we went to see a wonderful exhibit entitled Chagall et la Bible, at the Musee d'art et d'histoire du Judaisme on Rue de Temple.  In 1930, Chagall was commissioned by the art dealer Ambroise Vollard to illustrate a bible.  He completed about 30 plates before Vollard died in 1939.  In 1952, after the war, Chagall resumed work and completed 105 plates by 1956, when the bible was published.  The museum had the earlier gouaches as well as the finished 105 illustrations which were wonderful.  There were also some painting that Chagall did on a trip to Palestine in 1931, just prior to starting work on the illustrations.

Finally, in the main part of the museum, there were photos and mementos of the residents of the building that now houses the museum (the former Hotel De Saint Aignan), who were almost all deported from France in 1942.

We emerged into the sunlight and went for a late lunch at the Breizh Cafe on our street--- innovative and delicious crepes- we had the chevre crepe.  We also had some of their wonderful apple cider.  What is neat is that our street and part of the Marais is closed to vehicle traffic on Sundays.  Hoards of people were wandering around.  We ended up hanging out at the Places de Vosges, which was packed.   I've also included a picture of Allan (now known as "Alain", in Paris) in his new mauvais garcon T-shirt near a street we discovered, called Mauvais Garcon!!! How cool is that!





Place de Vosges


cider and crepe





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